I had the pleasure of falling in love with the charming Austrian city of Graz this summer and it’s somewhere you must visit. Graz is Austria’s second largest city and sits within the Styria region of the country, known as the ‘Green Heart of Austria’. It may be Austria’s second largest city in population size but it’s still actually quite small with just under 350,000 residents. This means that Graz is easily explored and retains a wonderful small town sense of community with some of the friendliest people I’ve met during my travels in Europe.
The Austrian concept of Lebensgefühl encapsulates the unique way of enjoying life to the full in Austria and this is what I was in search of during my time in Graz. I began to understand Lebensgefühl in Graz as the way that old and new come together, the passion of the people about their city and their work as well as how the city merges nature and architecture for all to enjoy. If Graz isn’t already on your European summer itinerary then change your plans to experience Lebensgefühl for yourself!
Read on to find out the 9 reasons I fell in love with Graz and why you’ll do the same 💖
{Ad} This post has been written after a trip to Graz with the Austria Tourist Board and with the Graz Tourism Board. The post, photos, words and content have all been written by me (Cat Thomson) and are my own thoughts.
1. The Architecture
One of the most noticeable things in Graz as you stroll through the city is the beautiful and varied architecture that you can spot. Buildings in Graz have been influenced over the years by many different styles and cultures which has led to an interesting mix as Gothic churches sit along from Renaissance facades and courtyards.
In Graz, you must always look up and keep your eyes peeled for unusual details. You will spot ornate stucco work around the Hauptplatz and fanciful door knockers on old palatial residences. Wander down the courtyards around the Old Town and be transported back in time as you marvel at these snapshots of hidden life. Graz is also home to some fascinating contemporary architecture which you can learn more about in section 9. The Contemporary Designs.
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2. The History
The mixed architecture of Graz alludes to the fascinating and long history that is wrapped up in the city. Graz has one of Europe’s largest Old Towns and it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Centre to preserve the beauty and recognise the history that exists here.
Graz was first mentioned in the twelfth century and its name comes from the Slavic word ‘gradec’ which means a small fortress. This means that Graz has seen around 800 years of history all of which have influenced the buildings that remain today. The Franciscan Monastery is the oldest monastery in Graz with a beautiful, peaceful atmosphere away from the bustle of the city streets.
Learn more about the history of Graz at the Graz Museum.
3. The Views
If you’ve read any of my other posts about discovering cities then you’ll know that I love a good skyline view point. That’s also possible in Graz. A great way to get a perspective of the city and to see the way in which history and contemporary collide is from a raised vantage point. You will also see how the orange terracotta rooftops contrast with the multitude of green spaces.
Ride the escalators all the way up to the top of the Kastner & Öhler department store and you’ll find a panoramic roof terrace to enjoy a bite to eat or a drink with stunning views towards Schlossberg (the hill in the centre of Graz) across those orange rooftops.
The other stunning view to find is from Schlossberg itself. There are a number of ways to make it to the top of this small hill. You can test your stamina by climbing the zig zagging stairs, take a more leisurely winding back route, ride the funicular or take the elevator. I opted to zoom up with the elevator and then walked back down the stairs. Whichever you use to reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible view stretching right out across the city towards the green hills beyond Graz. Spot the ‘friendly alien’ (see 9.), the courtyards of the Old Town and the many church towers that soar upwards above the city skyline.
4. The Independent Shops & Cafes
Graz is full of independent shops, cafes and restaurants which is a refreshing break from the usual global chain brands. It’s a wonderful place to browse the pretty little streets to find some quirky gifts to take home! In Lend, stop in at VDB Spices & Specialties. VDB has converted what was at one time a brothel (and at others a hotel) into the most incredible, contemporary shop and office space. They sell spices, salts and herbs to some of the most exquisite restaurants in Austria, so taking home a jar or two is a great way to remember your time in Graz. Continue exploring Lend to discover other small businesses from cool bars to fair-trade shops and beautiful book shops.
In the Old Town I stopped for a coffee at Coffee Ride which is a very cute independently owned cafe and a great little spot to take a break. The homemade chocolate cake is delicious 🤤
5. The People
It follows on well from the above that another reason to fall in love with Graz is the people. With plenty of independently owned businesses, the people that I met in Graz were extremely passionate about their work and their city. I think more so than anywhere else I’ve been and I got such a keen sense about how much the people of Graz just love living there.
Local tour guide David, gave me an epic tour around Graz and it was fascinating to learn so much from someone who has grown up here and excited to share his love of the city. On my tour we encountered a number of locals at the market, in their places of work and on the street. There was so much enthusiasm and warmth from everyone who were happy to help with questions and suggestions of what to do. From the hotel reception staff to the baristas in the coffee shops and to the art gallery managers, their passion was infectious and I couldn’t help smiling as I explored Graz!
6. The Green Spaces
As I mentioned in the introduction, Graz is situated in Styria which is the ‘Green Heart of Austria’ and Graz is full of green spaces. In Europe, it is one of the cities with the greatest amount of green spaces within the city area which means there are plenty of parks to relax in. This is perfect on a warm summer’s day as it feels as though you’re walking through a forest miles outside of the city! Graz has made sure to protect the areas of green space within the city and if you visit <rotor> they currently have an exhibition that showcases what this looks like.
If you’ve enjoyed your fill of architecture in the Old Town then you can find three fabulous parks to stroll through within the heart of the city. Schlossberg, Burggarten and Stadtberg are all easily reached on foot and provide a wonderful green oasis from the bustling streets of the city. A little further out (and with the help of public transport) you can visit the Botanical Gardens or explore Planetengarten at Eggenberg Palace.
7. The Sustainability
Graz is not just physically green it’s also environmentally green and sustainability is built into the city’s DNA. Graz began many sustainable initiatives long before it was trendy or cool and so being a green city is as much of a way of life for Graz as strolling through the parks is.
It’s wonderful to see somewhere that makes being environmentally responsible whilst you’re on holiday so easy (and that the initiatives are perfect for locals as well). Make sure to bring your own reusable water bottle because there are 120 water fountains around the city which will pump spring water straight into your bottle! If you’re not near a water fountain then look out for the ‘Refill Graz’ signs in cafe / shop / restaurant windows and you can fill up with tap water for free.
Graz is incredibly bicycle friendly encouraging locals and tourists alike to hop on a bike and cycle to their destinations. There are bike lanes everywhere and some streets are even for bikes only! A safe city to cycle in is one of the most important ways to encourage people to ride and Graz does this very well. If you’re not up for cycling then the city is also walk friendly. There are many public transport options available for longer distances or if you are in need of resting your feet. In the city centre, it’s even free to ride the tram!
8. The Food
Another reason to fall in love with Graz is its food. Graz is the Culinary Capital of Austria which tells you everything you need to know about the city’s restaurant culture. You’re not going to have a bad meal in Graz!
An element of Graz’s sustainability culture is that there are lots of market. In fact Graz has more market days than any other city in Europe! This means you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables every day of the week. It is the local farmers themselves that bring their produce to the markets so you are buying directly from farm to table. Graz is home to an incredible number of farms within the city limits. Over three hundred local farms means there is a huge amount of variety and colour at the markets. They’re not just frequented by local residents but also by chefs so the food you eat in restaurants in cafes is made using fresh local ingredients – yum.
I loved that in Graz I didn’t need to think if I was going to be eating good food or if I was going to be ripped off with the price. There are two reasons for this. First, Graz is the Culinary Capital of Austria so restaurants are looking to uphold this reputation. Secondly, since it’s not as touristy as other European cities, everywhere you look is popular with locals. You can be assured that you’ll always find a good place to eat or drink.
A couple of my favourites were Landhauskeller (I went for a classic Austrian schnitzel) and Mohrenwirt (homemade gnocchi with the freshest sauce), both of which I would highly recommend.
9. The Contemporary Designs
In section 1. The Architecture, I shared some of the historic architecture that is a reason to fall in love with Graz. However, it’s not only the buildings and designs of the past that make Graz special. In 2003, Graz was designated the European Capital of Culture for that year and in 2011, Graz was given the status of a UNESCO City of Design, one of only 40 cities around the world to be given such a title. Graz is at the forefront of contemporary design, thinking and architecture.
There are two most famous structures which you must visit during your stay in the city; The Kunsthaus (also known as the ‘friendly alien’) and Mur Island. The Kunsthaus is Graz’s Art Museum which focuses on contemporary art exhibitions from the 1960s onwards. The design is completely unusual and was created for 2003 as the European Capital of Culture. Mur Island was designed by NY architect Vito Acconci for 2003 as well. It was only supposed to be in place for ten years… but has become such a part of Graz that it’s still here! The Island is part cafe, part shop and part event space to connect the inhabitants with the river which runs through the city. Mur Island floats on top of the river and moves as the river level changes.
From its fantastic architecture to its culinary excellence and beautiful green spaces, there are many reasons to fall in love with Graz and experience Austrian Lebensgefühl to the full. What are you waiting for, it’s time to fall in love for yourself 💚
Cat x
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